Dr Who - War Doctor - 3dhubs.com

My first print for 3dhubs.com arrived via my 3D-Hub. It's a Dr Who character, the War Doctor.
This was my first print with Support Material generated in Slic3r, it works way better as I expected. You have to remove the support material afterwards and it may leave some scars behind.

The War Doctor on Thingiverse: the Remixed version works fine, the original isn't printable due to lots of errors in the meshes.

A time lapse video of 3d printing the War Doctor including support material - Print time was 6,5 hours

New Prints - An Ingress Portal Key and a personalized guitar pick

Some new prints:

Ingress Portal Key for an Ingress Resistance player

A guitar pick for TWEX's guitar player & rockstar Bjorn V.G.

Next I'm planning on attaching the Panelolu 2 Display I've been having for a couple of weeks now to start printing with PLA. The extra extruder fan can be controlled with header outputs on the Panelolu2 PCB. For now I've been printing only with ABS. I'm now reading on how to connect, configure and use the display with Sangiunololu and Marlin Firmware.

*TWEX = The Wednesday Evening eXcuse

Julia Vase

Julia Vase by virtox.

My largest and longest print to date: 8,5 hours, ~9x9x9cm

ABS @ 240°C, 200µm layer height, 100% infill, etc 

A Dodecahedron from 3ds Max to a printed object

My brother, Sammy aka XyZeR, made this variation of a dodecahedron in 3ds Max. Although not frequently used for 3d printing, 3ds Max can also generate polygon models perfect for 3D Printing.

In 3ds Max there is a built in 'STL Check Modifier' that will pinpoint any issue you might have when printing the object. You can get a 30 day trial version of 3ds Max if you feel up to it...

Also read ShapeWay's guide on how to use 3ds Max for 3d printing.

The STL file is available on Thingiverse: XyZeR's Dodecahedron

0.2mm layer height, ABS 145°C, Heatbed 110°C, Bridges @ 30mm/s, no cooling/fan

Don't forget to print spare parts for your reprap!

I almost forgot to print spare parts for my Prusa i3 RepRap. I decided to first print the extruder herringbone gears as they seem to wear the most.

I'm very happy with the quality of the printed herringbone gears.
Let me know if you need spare parts for your RepRap!

It's been a while since I posted a video of the printer in action... 

On my PC I use a webcam viewer app and TeamViewer is active so I can check on a print using my SmartPhone / Tablet / PC from anywhere in the world! And it's free.

Ingress XMP - resistance

An XMP with Resistance logo for a fellow Ingress player N3th4cker.
STL's downloaded from Thingiverse: XMP With Logos

Vive la resistance!

Custom made Z-axis Endstop Mechanism

My friend Leo was so kind to design and draw an adjustable Z-endstop mechanism in a CAD program.
STL Files are available on Thingiverse: Prusa i3 Adjustable Z-Endstop by Leo van der Pauw
The mechanism is working fine!

Let's try acetone vapor treated parts!

I've printed quite a few test-Marvins now in ABS, let's throw one of them in an acetone vapor bath!

The setup: big glass jar, a little bit of acetone, a small 'table' that fits in the jar and a heatbed. 

Put the jar with acetone on the heatbed at 100°C and put the ABS piece in the vapor for a couple of minutes.

The result: smooth parts!

Warning: Acetone is very flammable and the fumes are not very healthy!

Just printing some stuff, no calibration this time...

The Droplet Vase from Thingiverse. The top is not very good due to the issue described in the previous post.

I kept losing my drills, so made this object in Sketchup (I need to try other software soon), sliced with the new Slic3r 1.0.1 and printed with PrintRun Pronterface.
Note to self: do not print a 3mm hole for a 3mm object, use spacing!

Bad print quality on small lines/area's/bridges + Custom made adjustable Z-endstop

My <5mm = bad print quality issue

While printing smaller objects the prin quality is really bad. Rounded corners that should be straight corners, ugly 5mm bridges while I can print a perfect (imho) 50mm bridge. etc.
So i've asked the people on the RepRap Forums for their experienced advice...

Custom made adjustable Z-endstop

A friend created a custom made adjustable z-endstop in a fancy CAD program. The print is not perfect yet (due to the issue described above) but a second version of the STL files is coming soon. If it works out fine I'll post the STL's on thingiverse!